On Tuesday, I had the opportunity to tour the
Tunnel of Life with some other Embassy family members. It was pretty impressive, I must say, to think that this tunnel 1) saved Sarajevo and 2) was never destroyed by the Serbian forces. Here is a short video that will help give you perspective. That is our guide in the video. It was his family's house that hid the tunnel.
Sarajevo's tunnel of life by euronews-en
Our guide served in the war, joining the Bosnian forces at 17 years old. His bias was quite obvious (ripping the UN for not allowing arms to be shipped into the country), but if I had gone through what that man must have, I'm not sure I could avoid bias either. The tour included a video, which was a tad too long at 20 minutes, but which had some interesting video of people and soldiers building the tunnel and then using the tunnel to sneak food and weapons into Sarajevo. Then we were able to go into the house (now a museum) and then actually walk through 25 meters of the tunnel itself. It was humbling to be there, and despite my sorority girl smile and stoop pose below, I was in awe of what these people did to survive during nearly 4 years of siege.
It was also informative. One thing our guide said that stuck with me is that a lot of people mistakenly think of the Bosnian War as a religious war, pitting Muslims against Christians. That is not true. It was a political war fought over territory and as a direct result of the break-up of then Yugoslavia. I certainly thought it was an ethnic war due to massacres like
Srebenica. Centuries old hatred bubbled up during the political war to cause such ethnic-based killings, but the war began due to similar reasons our own Civil War began. Territories were seceding and wanting to set up their own governments. Many people didn't want that to happen, especially when a city like Sarajevo was in one of those territories. There were Serbs and Croats in Sarajevo who fought with the Bosnians to try and save the city, so to dismiss the Bosnian War as a religious war leaves out a great deal of the reasons behind the conflict.
It was a very worthwhile visit, and Geoff and I will happily take any visitors who wish to see it for themselves.
The front of the house that hid the tunnel.
Back of the house after entering
Map explaining the siege.
The airport (& tunnel underneath it) are on the right hand side of the map,
in the narrowest white space.
Entrance to the tunnel
Outside of which there was evidence of attack
Going down the stairs
The tunnel
Me in the tunnel
(in my posing defense, everyone had to stoop to walk in the tunnel, even me!)
Our tour group and guide
A sobering sight--a list of the over 11,000 names of the civilians killed in the siege.
The war took over 100,000 lives.