For our Thanksgiving in the Balkans, we decided to rent a villa on the Croatian coast. In the offseason, rates go WAY down and the daytime temperatures are still quite pleasant. We convinced 3 other families to go in with us to make this a truly fun and magical holiday. After much research, we decided on
Brsecine Castle. Go ahead, click on the website to see why this was our choice. 5 bedrooms (for the 9 adults and 4 kids), a pro kitchen for our Thanksgiving meal and all the seafood we wanted, and a harbor right our our front door all for an EXTREMELY reasonable price. If it sounds too good to be true, that's because it was. But I am getting ahead of myself...
We left Thursday morning for the 4 1/2 hour drive. Now, some of you may know that since moving here, we have discovered that Liam gets car sick. The problem is, Liam has developed an aversion to his dramamine. It is torture to give it to him. He gags and cries and it kills me everytime, but I always remind myself that the vomit is worse. So, right before our trip, we go through the water-boarding routine, but this time, Liam gagged so much he threw up right then and there.
(Griswold sign #1) Geoff cleaned the carpet while I cleaned Liam and tried to get him to take more medicine by bribing him with chocolate milk (rookie mistake), then off we went.
Things went well for the first hour and a half. Then Liam vomited (
Griswold sign #2). And you remember what I gave him before we left, right? GROSS!!!!! I did my best to catch some of the sick while simultaneously cleaning Liam and carseat FROM THE FRONT SEAT. You see, we packed the Civic to its fullest, and I couldn't fit in the backseat. Geoff finally found a pit stop where we could do a better cleaning job, rest for a bit, and get some juice laced with dramamine (see, I learned! Smash up the stupid dramamine and stir it into his drink! Ah Ha!).
We hit the road again, and this time, Liam fell asleep. Thank goodness! But I was still as nervous as a cat and had to keep turning my head every five seconds to make sure he wasn't vomiting in his sleep. But all went well, and after 2 more quick stops for some local wine and produce, we found our villa...only no one was there to let us in. (
Griswold sign #3--why was I ignoring them?). We were a bit early, so I told Geoff not to worry. We parked the car, pulled out some snacks, and enjoyed our view. And kept enjoying our view... and kept enjoying our view while checking our watches. We switched to throwing rocks while checking our watches and trying to call Ramon, the landlord. Nothing.
While throwing rocks, the Saxtons pulled up. They aided in the checking of the watches and the calling/texting of Ramon. Then the Blevinses drove up. They joined our gang of watch-checkers and callers/texters. Things were looking VERY bad when Ramon FINALLY responded. He had no idea why his guy wasn't there to let us in and said he'd get right on it. So we went back to throwing rocks, but this time we figured beer would be a delicious addition. We were right!
All this time, I started noticing odd things...an unswept patio, a pile of dead flowers from some sort of social event...hmmmm. It looked like no one had been there to prepare for our arrival. Then Ramon's guy pulled up. He opened the gate, and we entered the courtyard...from hell. It was filthy. As was the kitchen, where we discovered that not only was there NO OVEN FOR OUR THANKSGIVING MEAL, there was an old, dead squid in the fridge!
Wait, it gets better. The only toilet on the main living level didn't work, and there was a pair of men's undies hanging in the shower. There was no wi-fi as promised (so we could talk to family via Skype/FaceTime), and we found all kinds of wonderful toys for the kiddies...an unsecured air rifle, a rusty axe, and used snorkels, all within a toddler's curious reach.
While Ramon's man ran around like mad, turning on hot water heaters and installing exterior lights and such, his lady friend pretended to push a mop around the bathrooms. Geoff got Ramon on the phone and used his diplomatic skills to get Ramon to knock off 200 Euro for what we began to call our "villa"...high end camping.
Quite simply, we made the best of it, laughing about the hot water running out after 15 minutes (of showering or washing dishes, didn't matter), our fire-grilled turkey and fixings, and all the WEIRD stuff Ramon had hanging around his house. The weather and views were simply breathtaking, and our meals turned out delicious despite our difficulties. We even started toasting RAMOOOON! The kids had a blast--the boats, endless supply of rocks, and warm sun were all they needed for entertainment, and there was even a halfway decent kayak, which the families took turns using. It was a crazy, unforgettable holiday, and we loved (almost) every minute of it.
Grilled oysters
"Red Liam" and Isaiah
Our Thanksgiving oven
(Geoff did an amazing job with the turkey!)
Outside fun
"Chunking" rocks
Some of Ramon's weird stuff
Our villa and dock
And from across the harbor
From the top of the hill
Hilltop sunset views 1 and 2
Can you spot me sitting on the wall?
I couldn't make the sunset climb due to Liam's napping,
so I enjoyed the sunset from the wall corner nearest the water.